Switching+Sweatshops+into+Safe+Factories...

**Topic: ‘Blood, Sweat, and T-Shirts’: What is the role of the globalised fashion industry in affecting human health and quality of life? **  media type="custom" key="24294674" align="center"
 * Student Name: Wong Nga Ting ** **Student Number: n8709343**
 * Tutor Name: Michelle Newcomb **

Have you ever thought that the 'dirty sweatshops jobs' are the dream jobs of some people in some part of the developing world? The video, produced by the New York Times, has highlighted the necessity to retain the 'sweatshops', or better to say, the outsourcing factories in the developing countries. Scavenging in the largest garbage dumping field, absorbing toxic substances, being irritated by the chemical smoke, many Cambodians are at much worse working conditions than in the sweatshops. They just want to make a living by picking plastics and metals there, which sell at $0.5 per pound. Many of which are just children. They just walk in the field with sandals or bare feet, and without safety regulation or children labour protection law, they often get hurt. In those rural impoverished countries, sweatshops are the much better alternatives to scavenging in the garbage, prostitution, construction work etc. Though sweatshops has helped the eastern Asia to raise the living standards, the root of the problem remains the lack of resources and skill of the people in the developing countries.
 * Sweatshops - Better than alternatives? **

The public health issue, appearing in many impoverished developing countries, is not uncommon. The deprived sweatshop workers, under poor working and living conditions and a lack of safety standards. This issue is not easy to address, but is mainly hooked on, firstly the relationship between the apparel industry and the customers, secondly the relationship between the apparel industry and the sweatshop workers' condition in the developing countries.
 * What is the public health issue? **

 Firstly, in the wake of globalisation, the apparel industry is driven towards the globalised clothing chains, and the outsourcing practice for maximising the profits. The social trends of consumerism and fast-fashion nowadays are also the main drivers of globalisation of the apparel industry. However, due to globalisation, the outsourcing practice, consumerism and fast-fashion thrives and this has reinforced the growth of globalisation of the industry, which has created a vicious circle.

 Secondly, as pointed out by the video, the lack of access to resources and skills of people in the developing countries, together with no better alternative choices, have driven them to work in the sweatshops. This means the inequalities of access to resources and skills between the developing and developed countries also play a role in this public health issue.


 * Literature Review **
 * __Background/ Introduction __**

 The globalised fashion industry have been using the practice of outsourcing for the recent years and that have been affecting health and quality of life of humans from different contexts. The following will provide a literature review on the recent research dated over the last 10-year period, that had analysed firstly the key causes that drove globalisation, including advances in four areas, namely travel, technologies, media and communication; secondly, the appeal to globalisation to the fashion industry; thirdly, the major companies that pioneered the way to cheap, outsourced labour; and fourthly, the key macro-factors that drove the trend towards the practice of outsourcing, including economic, technological, social and cultural drivers, including evidence for the increase in profits available to companies who do the practice and the associated costs and risk factors that followed. After presenting the historical background of how globalisation lead to the practice of outsourcing, the literature review will then describe the methodologies that the researches are using, followed by the limitations of them.

__** Body **__

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> With the rapid growth of globalisation, high consumption trend towards fashion industry and the alarming health effects posed on the humans, it is not surprising that the relationship between globalisation and the practice of fashion industry to meeting the high-consumption trend has captured substantial attention in recent years. Globalisation is attributed to advances in travel, technologies, media and communication, while these, proved by a large part of studies, have contributed to a range of interrelated causes for the expansion of globalisation: information technology advancement including telecommunication and media popularisation, the change of production networks into the multinational practice, and the overall supportive attitude of the government due to the macroeconomic benefits (Garrett, 2000; Isac, Dura, & Ciurlau, 2011; Kaul, 2011). While some research focused on the correlation of one of the causes with globalisation, others put emphasis on displaying the a complexity of key factors that drive globalisation with the support of other literatures in the field and quantitative methods, for example using the Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) flow and production networks to measure the extent of globalisation in Isac et al.'s research (2011).

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> As a result of many areas of advances, globalisation has become an appeal to many companies in the fashion industry. As highlighted by Tokatli, Kızılgün, & Cho (2010), the fashion companies have turned the question of how to meet the internationally-growing clothing demands into a matter of how to survive within the highly-competitive fashion industry. This accounted for the trend of the practice of outsourcing which was commonly-identified by the mainstream literature as one of the useful strategies for the companies to remain competitive among others.For mature industries for example the apparel costumes or footwear manufacturers, the most imperative benefit is seemed to be the increased sales and profit (Camuffo, Fulan, Romano, &Vinelli, 2006; Mollá-Descalsa, Frasquet-Deltoroa, & Ruiz-Molinaa, 2011). For instances, in pure terms of labour costs, there was found a 20-30% reduction of costs to relocate an Italian knitwear company, Firm A to Romania according to one of the case studies conducted by a qualitative research by Camuffo et al.(2006), and a minimum of 18% cost savings captured in the worst case scenario under the estimation by the integrated simulation software based on analysis of the US apparel industry in a research conducted by Kumar and Arbi (2008). <span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%; line-height: 1.5;">Yet it is not the main factor, since globalisation (existing in the way of outsourcing practice) may not favour the companies due to a host of hidden associated costs and risk factors, including the increased security and privacy concerns, raised lead time, training costs, low-quality costs, and potential logistics complications (Isac et al., 2011; Camuffo et al., 2006; Kumar & Arbi, 2008).
 * <span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;">The qualitative method - case study, was used in many research to help provide account on a phenomenon. However, there are some limitations that cannot be overlooked. For example, in the research conducted by Camuffo et al. (2006), there were nine targeted participants selected in his case study, all of which were selected by theoretical sampling, were relocating production chains to the same foreign country, and competing with similar industries such as apparel and footwear industries. One of the limitations, however, lies in the lack of representativeness of it, since only nine case studies are not typical enough to reveal the phenomenon. Another identifiable limitation lies in the possible biases evolved due to the unaware uses of instinct and ability by researchers in the surveying part during investigating the participating companies. ||

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> In order to go beyond the most apparent economic driver that drove the trend towards the practice of outsourcing, since all firms have realised that there is no longer the case to excel in one single aspect to be competitive, but they have to be well-rounded: ensuring quality control, producing fashionable items, giving products punctually, so far and so forth, studies have probed into different aspects, such as technological, social and cultural drivers to examine the still-attractive outsourcing practice. That is, why they still run the risks of failure to generate the expected financial benefits because of the above-mentioned hidden associated costs, to outsource part of or all of their production abroad? While some literatures still point out there can be a quite attractive net profits after balancing out the associated costs, others have stressed the promising development potential in the largely-populated and low-cost labour countries, such as Romania, Bangladesh, India, Pakistan (Kumar & Arbi, 2008). It is therefore contended that apart from economic driver lying in the appeal of large markets in those largely-populated countries despite the low-purchasing power of citizens. The technological drivers include specific training raising their skill, production flexibility, and reduced technical barriers for the supply network shift (Camuffo et al., 2006; Isac et al., 2011); social drivers include the provision of job opportunities in the countries and the need to meet the growing products demands; main cultural driver is the high demands of labour job in the developing countries. It is worth noting that the customer demands change over time therefore the companies should consider the foreign country knowledge for making sound decisions.

__**<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> Conclusion **__

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> All in all, as it is reasonable for the companies in fashion industry to choose outsourcing for the sake of their own profits, however, this does not mean that they can violate the labours' human rights and neglect their health conditions. While closing the outsourcing factories may not be the best available options as from the perspective of the workers living in the developing countries, working in the sweatshops are even better than other alternatives such as picking plastics from the landfills, farming, or even prostituting. There remains the health inequalities between the developed countries and developing countries, and the fast fashion trend is part of the culprits of the globalised fashion industry to adopt the outsourcing strategies which deprive of the labours' health. This population health issue will be discussed in the next section in terms of the social and cultural components that determined the causes, influences, and redresses of it.


 * <span style="font-family: Gisha,sans-serif; font-size: 16pt;">Cultural and social analysis **
 * __<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;">Introduction __**

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> The factories located in developing countries, overseen by subcontractors, which might meet the safety requirements and minimum wage, yet not provide their workers with adequate living standards, is synonymous with sweatshops (Miller B., 2004). When talking about the issue of sweatshops, that exploits the labours' right and health, it is crucial to consider the society and culture factors since the issue does not only related to the labours' health but also the global general populations'.

(Siegle, 2013) <span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> One of the social theory, globalisation, of fast-fashion, consumerism, and outsourcing practice have together set the backcloth for the issue of sweatshops. Before redress this issue, the social theory behind it is important to be understood in advance. Firstly, the globalisation of apparel chains and outsourcing practice have caused a reduction in retailing price of clothes (Tokatli, 2010), in the UK for example, the price of women clothing have dropped by 1/3 in 10 years (Lee, 2007). Therefore, this appeals to the customers and they purchase the clothing more and in as frequently as a weekly basis, which in turn boost sales and profits to encourage the companies to adopt fast fashion strategies (Bruce & Daly, 2006). This becomes a vicious circle as the social and cultural phenomenon that encourages fast fashion is deeply rooted. It is the reason why the apparel companies use outsourcing of production to the labours of the foreign countries, often the developing countries requiring low labour costs and not too far away from the base of the companies. Zara is an example of successful specialist on fast fashion which adopts sourcing closer to its base companies to remain competitive (Bruce & Daly, 2006). Now that, globalisation is not solely a problem of politics, economics or sociology, but is that of the cultural identity, for instance, the consumerism phenomenon that has become a leisure activity in Shanghai is socially-constructed, that people from different socio-economic positions would choose to purchase things from luxury, high fashion, or supermarket-discounter (Bao, 2008). As the notion of consumerism as a part of leisure activities is instiled in people's mind, this socially-constructed behaviour would continue to grow and encourage the globalisation of fashion industry.
 * __<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> How globalisation is important in the understanding and redress of the issue of sweatshops? What are the main social trends and cultural forces that both influence and are affected by this issue? __**

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> From the perspectives of the workers in the outsourcing factories, who suffer for long in poverty, having an opportunity to work in the factories is actually giving a hand for them (Miller J.A., 2009). Since other alternatives may offer much worse working conditions for them, such as picking the plastics in the garbages where the infections of diseases and injuries from the dangerous rubbish occur frequently, prostituting, construction. The factories seem to not only give them the employment opportunities, but also provide a so-called 'better' working condition and salary for them, which is against all the critiques of 'sweatshops' around the media and the authorities.

(BBC News, 2012) ||< (Yunus, 2013) ||
 * __<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> Who are the social and cultural groups who are most affected by this issue? __**
 * < [[image:http://news.bbcimg.co.uk/media/images/64365000/jpg/_64365984_64365983.jpg align="center" caption="Bangladeshi women react outside the clothes factory"]]

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> Any deadly accidents happened to the workers in the sweatshops are not uncommon to hear from the news report. Consistent accidents have been reported: the 2012 Pakistan garment factory fires, 2012 Wal-mart factories fire due to the lack of awareness on the fire safety standards (BBC News, 2012) and recently in April, a deadliest garment factory collapse accident happened again in Bangladesh with more than 1000 killed (Yunus, 2013), .... The long working hours and poor working conditions have also adversely affected their mental and physical health status, exploiting their human rights due to unfair treatment, leading to anxiety and high stress level, raising the risk for hypertension, cardiovascular disease, depression etc (Kjellstrom, Hakansta &Hogstedt, 2007, p. 7).

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> This reveals that the importance of the issue demand prompt actions from authorities.

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> The crux of the issue remains a host of complex factors: there seems no better alternatives for the workers, the companies are seeing the opportunity to save labour costs, the inequality of access of resources and skills exists between developed and developing countries.

__**<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> Where public health experts should focus to redress or alleviate the sweated labour issue? **__

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> As mentioned before, the 'sweatshops' do help provide job opportunities for the workers in developing countries under poverty and offer better working conditions than other jobs they would otherwise do, however, are sweatshops really the best option for them? What can public health experts do at the current stage?

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> Back to the crux of the problem, as there is a need for the existence of the outsourced factories, the following recommendations could be considered.

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> Firstly, not to pull down any sweatshops could keep the employment of workers. This could be done by maintaining a reasonable living wage for the workers and improving the working conditions for the workers, which was found to be not necessarily reduce the job vaccancies for the developing world citizens (Miller J.A., 2004). While academy suggested that imposing the extra costs (of improving the working conditions in the factories) on the customers by applying a label on the products, the money going to the improvements of factories' condition is about 5 cents extra for a 35-dollar items (Yunus, 2013), which is acceptable to the public, effectively advertising for the companies and practical to alleviate the issue of sweated labours. This is particularly feasible when people see this as a 'charity cause', that would become a motivation for them to choose the labelled products among others.

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> Secondly, creating a threat of negative publicity through the organisational effort could help to generate positive outcomes, for example, the notable success by the National Labor Committee (NLC) campaign against the breaching of safety standards of "The Gap Inc." apprarel factories, which made The Gap Inc. agreed on a code of conduct under the immense public and media pressure (Miller B., 2004). A well rounded living wage (the minimum wages that meet the level that are enough to lift a three-member family to above the poverty line as defined by International Labour Organisation (ILO)) revolution, together with the fair trade promotion, could potentially reverse the trend of sweatshops labouring (Miller B., 2004; Sluiter, 2009, p.117).

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> Concerning the inequality of access of resources and skills exists between developed and developing countries, it is important for the public health experts to work collectively with people from different walks of life, for example, the organisations that are responsible for maintaining the sweatshops working conditions and give support to workers (Sluiter, 2009, p.181). In addition, they could conduct interventions by encouraging purchase of fair-trade products and recycled clothes instead of new clothes, though may not be acceptable to everyone. For example, in Australia, an organisation called "Ethical Clothing Australia (ECA)" has attached labels on the clothes that are made by Australian workers under a fair and reasonable conditions.

(Homeworker Code Committee Inc., 2011) <span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;">It is also important to advocate that the lifestyle shift towards the consumption modes less geared to environmental damage is necessary (Strong, n.d.), for example, modifying the present cultural and social norms of consumerism into enoughism, which emphasises less unnecessary purchasings.

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> In conclusion, the public health is in some extent competing against the economic market, social norms and cultural practice. While many mainstream economists are still contend the defence of sweatshops (Miller J., 2003) due to their profits-driven systems and the people are getting used to consumerism, it remains a formidable task for the public health workers to conduct the interventions abovementioned, so as to modify people's behaviours before the issue is getting more irreversible.

<span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;">In response to the heated controversy over whether sweatshops should be pulled down to redress the problem of the deprived sweatshops labours in the developing world, the insight of this video is in contrast to many mainstream critiques of the sweatshops. While the mainstream campaigns are demanding the closing of sweatshops and the ideas of outsourcing after a series of occurrence of deadly accidents, the video brings us the points of view from the sweatshop labours: sewing in a sweatshop is actually a dream job for them under the impoverished living conditions. This is a sad but true point, however, it made me realise that it is not just a simple yes or no to the question of whether should sweatshops exist. There are enough reasons for this issue to have remained for the recent years. The profits-driven systems in apparel industry, the customers' social trends and cultural behaviours of consumerism and fast-fashion, and the desire for a 'better' jobs of the workers in the developing countries. <span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;"> Through looking at the different perspectives, including globalisation, the companies' profits, the customers' needs, and the needs of employment in the developing countries, it seems that in this stage, the factors still favor the existence of sweatshops. Though, it does not mean that nothing could be done. After researching into this public health issue, I learnt that apart from learning from the success of past examples of campaigning, the social norms and cultural behaviours of people are also important to consider when implementing plans to alleviate the issue. In addition, I learnt that creating an intervention plan that is beneficial to both the companies, customers and the workers is important. For example, if only transferring the costs of renovating the factories and the standards to the customers without acknowledging that they are actually helping them, the effect could be less apparent, as they could not distinguish between the products made by a real sweatshop or by a factory with improved conditions. This is because this strategy takes advantage of people's motivation to support the purchase of a products made by healthy workers instead of the sweated labours. <span style="font-family: Tahoma,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 110%;">Apart from being reflective of my usual purchasing behaviours, such as reducing the unnecessary purchasing of clothes and shoes with my friends and family, this exploring experience has encouraged me to be explorative and reflective in the future, when encountering an issue or controversy. I should look for voices from different perspectives, possibly from people of different walks of life. To identify the dilemma of each perspective, and to understand the multiple factors contributing to the problem, are important to think of possible redress or alleviation of the issues.
 * <span style="font-family: Gisha,sans-serif; font-size: 16pt;">Analysis of the artefact and my own learning ****<span style="font-family: Gisha,sans-serif; font-size: 16pt;">reflections **

=__**Reference List**__=

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