ATTENTION+shoppers!+Beware+of+that+bargain..

Name: Annick Mewing SN: n8884579 Tutor: Steven Badman ATTENTION shoppers! Beware of that bargain..

"There can be no keener revelation of a society's soul than the way in which it treats its children." ~Nelson Mandela (ILO,2012) At first sight, one sees a weathered young boy who is adamantly concentrating on completing his task ahead. He is sewing one of the many clothing items presumably as part of his so-called job. Attached to his rather slim physique by a metal chain is an oversized price tag, which is marked with a sale price of $64.99. Created by //World Vision Canada// for a campaign titled, ‘No child for sale’ this artefact confronts the viewer with a provoking statement in bold print, “Some things should never be for sale.”
 * // The Artefact: //**

(World Vision, 2013).

It is undeniable that the ever-growing global fashion industry is affecting human health and quality of life in many ways. Its impact may be direct or indirect, but definitely the most far reaching impact arises from low paid 'slave' workers and child labour. As large sectors of the fashion industry have become consumed with the pursuit of efficiency, the use of cheap labour is in some ways becoming second nature. Divulged in the artefact above, it is an issue that can be considered to be a part of a vicious cycle. From the decisions made by the industry’s elite, to the decisions we make everyday on the clothes we choose to wear, all are in some way affecting how those who produce these clothing items are treated. As these workers work tirelessly to maintain the high-demand produced by the fashion industry, the neglect on many basic human rights is increasingly alarming. As we as consumers continue to relish in the lower prices, can society justify this adjustment to increased fashion in a low and competitive cost environment when lives of both the young and old, are virtually put up for sale in a quasi slave labour model?
 * // The Public Health Issue: //**

**// Literature Review: //**
In a global world, where borders continue to merge, local economy, politics and culture no longer belong to and influence their immediate surroundings alone but to a larger extent, the rest of the globe (Tunisini, 2011). On the odd occasion, when the link between the globalised fashion industry and the exploitation of workers is presented in the media, thought-provoking images and campaigns are often disclosed. The chosen artefact is an example of this. Once broadcasted throughout global media, researchers have taken it into their own hands to delve into this issue through the use of literature to highlight the many lives, which have been put in jeopardy (Runfola, 2013).

Presented in Moran’s report titled ‘Beyond Sweatshops: Foreign Direct Investment and Globalization in Developing Nations’ is a significant insight into how countries must begin to develop strategies which aim to maximise both the benefits and opportunities of choosing foreign direct investments, and how to eliminate the dangers and difficulties which arise from this decision (Moran, 2002). Moran discusses the challenges which developing countries face in their desire to build policies, which encompass the benefits of foreign direct investment amongst low-wage sectors, but also guards workers from current mistreatment (Moran, 2002). His report evaluates the harm that has evolved from the use of sweatshops, but literally aims to look ‘Beyond Sweatshops’ and discuss how the use of labour-intensive operations in developing countries can be conducted ethically. In order for many people to acknowledge the drastic need to change current circumstances, people must first understand the harsh working conditions, which are being experienced. Moran’s research presents just this. Research shows that factories are often hot, loud, and lack ventilation (Moran,2002). In fact, some factory operators force employees to work with “toxic and carcinogenic chemicals, such as toluene and benzene” (Rusu, 2011). The report also discusses the lack of minimum age regulations being enforced. The //International Labour Organisation// found that approximately 120 million children under 15 years of age were taking part in “substantial economic activity” (Moran, 2002). However, from this research it must also be taken into account the fact that the incomes provided by these children are vital for their families. Therefore, Moran also discusses the //International Labour Organisation’s// convention 182, the ‘Worst form of Child labour convention’ (Moran, 2002). This particular convention addresses the labour, which is most likely to put the safety, health and morals of children at greatest risk (ILO, 2012). As approximately 74 million boys and 41 million girls are involved in the worst forms of child labour, it has been essential to understand what is contributing to this large proportion of children being exploited. The //International Labour Organisation// recognises that to a large extent this form of labour is caused by poverty, and that the “long-term solution lies in sustained economic growth leading to social progress, in particular poverty alleviation and universal education” (ILO, 1999).

This drive to abolish such exploitation is also highlighted in Dexter Samida’s article, ‘Protecting the innocent, or protecting special interest?’ (Samida, 2005). The information he presents, discusses the suggested link between globalisation and child labour. Throughout the article, he discloses strategies that are believed to combat such labour, for example becoming less open to globalisation and foreign trade (Samida, 2005). However, it is the research conducted by Samida, which divulges information highlighting the importance of foreign trade and the consequences if this was to be omitted entirely. Where one critique explains, how “high levels of child labour might be attributable to an absence of globalisation, rather than too much of it.” Samida however presents sides for both arguments. Award winning journalist, Madeleine Grey Bullard makes a statement on her belief that “ globalisation could offer children an escape from lives of toil and drudgery, but instead, it draws more children into servitude” (Samida,2005).

It is important to note that the literature available provides evidence from various regions around the globe. Although the use of fact-based data was prominent throughout the literature sourced, on several occasions the authors chose to present opinions from different journalists, etcetera. This means that there is a possibility that beyond the factual information provided, the opinions may feature bias, witting or not, in the opposing sides of each argument. When discussing the literature, it must be taken into consideration the fact that individuals look at life through a different prism, may originate from a developed, or developing nation and therefore have different ideas as to what is deemed acceptable.

As much of the literature available presents evidence on the harsh realities that workers face, it has also brought attention to the issue that globalisation is not solely to blame for the exploitation of workers. In an attempt to disentangle even more questions, which derive from this issue, authors George Cairns and Joanne Roberts discussion on ‘Fashion Victims’ raises even more questions (Cairns & Roberts,2007). Indeed, there is great debate on what is deemed ethically acceptable in terms of worker’s conditions. The literature discusses the choice of outsourcing. Whereby it is not just “cheap in the sense of lower cost, but cheap in the sense of contemptible treatment of workers” (Cairns & Roberts,2007). In presenting this argument, the opposing side is also discussed and presents a highly, debatable and controversial argument. Where Nicholas Kristof, the editorialist for the //New York Times// claims that the “world needs more, not fewer, sweatshops” (Cairns & Roberts,2007). Once again it is claims like this which have allowed both 'sides of the fence' to be evaluated and allow individuals to make their own decisions as to what is justifiable in the modern world irrespective of what the law allows.

**// Social and Cultural Analysis //**
The World Health Organisation defines a public health issue as one that needs to be addressed in order to prolong life of the entire population (WHO, 2013). As presented in the artefact above, having notably safer workplaces is an issue that is proving to be increasingly difficult to achieve (WHO, 2013). As a part of this brutal cycle, both those in developing and developed nations are affected in some way, shape or form. However, the consequences, which arise from the globalised fashion industry, are positioned on opposite ends of the spectrum. Whilst, most of us in the developed world are presented with highly reduced cost clothing items, those who are involved in the production of these clothes, have their emotional, and physical well being put in jeopardy.

This seems to draw parallels to Karl Marx’s social theory, Marxism. Whereby the health inequalities can be correlated to a division between social classes (Glaseer, 2007). The working class is defined, as those who are forced to sell their labour in the need to survive and the capitalist class is defined, as those who “own the means of production and gain production and gain profit through the exploitation of the working class” (Wagg, 2009). Although many have argued that although small, some form of wage is better than none. However, it is important to acknowledge that a possible way to control the effects that globalization is having on human health would be to make these wages even higher. This could be achieved by consumers in the developed countries paying a fair price for the goods and not necessarily the lowest cost price. It is known that in 1998, the labour costs from developing nations accounted for merely 4% of the cost of a Nike shoe sold in a developed country (Cairns & Roberts, 2007). So a fair wage for workers may simply result in a small increase for the end consumer.

Large retailers in search of sustained growth increasingly decide to expand abroad, responding to and also contributing to the globalisation process (Molla-Descals, 2011). From a Marxist perspective the rise of globalisation in past decades can be seen as a “progressive expansion of capitalist relations across the globe” (Munck, 2010). The exploitation of workers, which is a prominent issue, authorises the capitalist class to gain profits in order to expand production and therefore, maintain their position in a highly competitive market (Fletcher, 2002). Therefore, the sweatshops can be linked to being a direct “instrument for capitalist development,” which is hindering the quality of life for those involved (Fletcher, 2002).

When analysing how society reacts to the confronting issue of worker’s exploitation in the modern world. It is important to recognise that this response has changed as a result of social change in the 21st century (Fass, 2003). With this change in sensitivity, is a change in our recognised need to address the issue. Similarly to the artefact discussed, there are several campaigns, which aim to draw attention to this public health issue. Society has begun to move towards this anti-sweatshop movement, which aims to empower workers and re-establish responsibility and ethical treatment. Successful campaigns have been achieved by organisations like World Vision and Fair Trade. Some retailers have policies whereby they have a clear supply chain that does not involve exploitation of the workforce. A recent successful campaign conducted against Indonesian sweatshops was able to illustrate how the use of pressure to improve wages, and working conditions did not have a detrimental impact on the level of employment in Indonesia (Cairns & Roberts,2007).


 * // Analysis and Learning Reflection: //**

The artefact is both thought provoking and compelling, an image pieced together with only a few short words can provide insight into an issue, which is affecting the lives of many. Perhaps the ability to generate an effective campaign is in the image’s ability to make a viewer think twice. It does this by connecting an ordinary activity with an ordinary child to result in an out of the ordinary situation. A situation that places lives in danger in order to maintain the fast-paced global fashion industry. To draw attention to this issue //World vision Canada// have done the unexpected, and literally put a price on a child’s life. Although some would deem this controversial, it is this risk which lends itself to the question. Is $64.99 how much a human life really costs? What, and who, decide on the worth of an individual. The artifact successfully allows viewers to ask themselves this very question. In the quest for cheap, somewhat ‘disposable’ fashion, sale prices continue to diminish. Are these savoured fashion pieces the only items up for sale? Or is the health of the workers what is really diminishing?” This is perhaps, why I find this artefact so intriguingly stimulating. It has presented an issue through the use of simple imagery and text. Yet, has been created in such a way that allows me to comprehend the link between the reduced prices found in stores and the reduced quality of life as a product of outsourcing. This artefact was developed in the hope to change the way people view fashion and it’s industry. It was created so that people would look beyond the clothes found in their wardrobe, but rather delve into where and how they were made. After doing much research on this topic I have developed a new understanding for the importance of clothing that is ethically produced. Upon glancing at a sales rack, I will continue to ask myself the question. What, and who have been neglected in order for these clothes to be on sale? And as the artefact states, “Some things should never be for sale.”

“You may choose to look the other way but you can never say again that you did not know.”

~William Wilberforce

**// Reflection: //** 1. http://healthcultureandsociety2013.wikispaces.com/share/view/64697270

2. http://healthcultureandsociety2013.wikispaces.com/share/view/64697500

// Reference List: //
Cairns, G., & Roberts, J. (2007). A discussion of Fashion Victims: Various responses to the report by War on Want. //Critical perspectives on international// business, 3(2), 170 – 185. Retrieved from [|http://www.emeraldinsight.com.ezp01.library.qut.edu.au/journals.htm?issn=1742-2043&volume=3&issue=2&articleid=1603616&show=html&PHPSESSID=40ndihinmtse05iobib3tuphh5#idb18]

Fass, P. D. (2003). Children and globalization. //Journal of Social History, 36//(4), 963. Retrieved from []

Fletcher, B. (2002). Sweatshop labor, sweatshop movement. //Monthly Review, 53//(10), 56-58. Retrieved from []

International Labour Organisation. (2012). Convention 182 and World Day Against Child Labour. Retrieved from []

Molla-Descals, A. (2011). Internationalization patterns in fashion retail distribution. //The Service Industries Journal, 31,// 1979-1993. Doi: 10.1080/02642069.2011.540754

Moran, T. (2002). Beyond Sweatshops. //Foreign Direct Investment and Globalization in Developing Nations//. Retrieved from []

Munck, R. (2010). Marxism and nationalism in the era of globalization. Capital & Class, 34(1), 45-53,152. Retrieved from http://search.proquest.com/docview/896356674?accountid=13380

Runfola, A.(2013). Fast fashion companies coping with internationalization. //Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management 17//, 190-205. Doi: //10.1108/JFMM-10-2011-0075// Rusu, O. A., I., Zeic, A., & Gurzau, E. (2011). ASSESSMENT OF HUMAN EXPOSURE TO TOLUENE DIISOCYANATE. //Aerul Si Apa.Componente Ale Mediului,//, 387-395. Retrieved from []

Tunisini, A. (2011). Is local sourcing out of fashion in the globalization era? //Industrial Marketing Management, 40//(6), 1012-1023. Retrieved from: []

Wagg, S., Brick, C., Wheaton, B., & Caudwell, J. (2009). //Marxism. In The SAGE Key Concepts Series: Key concepts in sports studies//. doi:10.4135/9781446269077.n2