The+People's+Republic+of+Deadly+Denim

Tutor: Mangalam
 * Elissa Staff #2381141 **

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 * 1. Click on Link for Artefact Video: **

The People's Republic of Deadly Denim THE HIGH RISK HEALTH PRACTICES FOR A GLOBAL FASHION ICON

**__2. The Artefact:__ ** The video “Distressed Jeans by Distressed Workers“ is a documentary produced by the UK organisation War on Want, as part of their current campaign “Love Fashion Hate Sweatshops”. The interview is the result of covert studies and provides personal insight into the lived experience of Chinese workers in six denim manufacturing companies in South Eastern China, whose job it is to create denim products for many multinational retail brands throughout the world. The video provides personal accounts of the poor conditions these workers face as a result of needing employment in such companies, to earn a menial wage. The video demonstrates the common workplace practices involved in the manufacturing of these products, and how this affects the employees, forced to endure harmful health conditions to meet the demands of multinational trends in the globalised fashion industry.

**__3. Public Health Issue: __** Large globalised companies involved in the retail denim industry are the worst examples of global sweatshop conditions, exploiting the health and wellbeing of production employees to maintain their status at the top of the high fashion consumer market (Riddselius & Maher, 2010). The effect of this exploitive practice has led to the deterioration of the health of the workers in this industry globally, through health epidemics such as chronic silicosis (Muller, 2013). In many highly populated countries such as China, whose people depend on the garment manufacturing industry for their livelihoods, employees are forced to endure the permanent harmful health effects of sweatshop environments to earn an income, through exposure to long hours, inhumane conditions and poorly ventilated toxic factory environments (Riddselius & Maher, 2010).

"Everyone has the right to life, the right to work, to free choice of employment, to just and favourable conditions of work" (Universal Declaration on Human Rights, The United Nations)
 * __Article 23: __**

__**4. Literature Review: **__ The concept of globalization is a controversial issue widely debated, some view it as beneficial for the purposes of world economic development, others believe it increases inequality between nations and threatens living and employment standards (Berger & Marquardt, 2003). Mills (2008) states that although globalization may improve the incomes of individuals around the world, some findings show there are clear ‘winners and losers’. The two most demanding consumerist economies globally have consistently been North America and Western Europe; they have continuously lead the advancement in globalization of industries (Davis-Burns et al., 2011).The World Trade Organisation was formed in 1995 as a way to allow countries to negotiate multilateral trade agreements with each other, to improve economies through the international trade of goods and services (Davis-Burns et. al, 2011). The WTO is currently the most powerful legislative and judicial body in the world, above the United Nations and the International Labour Organisation; it’s rules are enforced through sanctions on national governments, and the promotion of multinational free trade agendas are a priority above humanitarian equality interests (Global Exchange, 2011).Changes to trade restrictions by the WTO in the late nineties allowed certain countries such as China, unlimited foreign investment potential for particular industries such as the garment industry (Davis-Burns et al., 2011). This process opened China to multinational invasion, corporations focused on sourcing the cheapest labour and the most easily exploited, due to the population's need for employment (Avenor, 2004). The role of the WTO is to look after multinational trade and has subsequently sanctioned governments to not involve ‘non commercial values’ such as human rights or corporate responsibility when negotiating foreign investment agreements; it is deemed illegal for a government to ban the trading of goods based on the way they are produced, for example those made using child labour (Global Exchange, 2011). The concept of outsourcing cheaper mass labour internationally first occurred during the 1960’s in the American garment industry, as the largest companies responded to the rising cost of domestic labour costs, and searched internationally for a cheaper workforce to keep costs low (Stall-Meadows, 2011). This subsequently influenced the common practice of vertical integration, where companies purchased all sectors involved in the production process to control costs (Davis-Burns et al., 2011). These companies became multinational corporations and transcended international borders; although based in America their production sectors were located internationally, however under multinational dictatorship (Davis-Burns et al., 2011). The term ‘fast fashion’ derived from this practice, and has been widely adopted by multinational clothing firms, it describes the ultra fast supply chain that focuses on consumer demand of new stock types regularly, through cheap and efficient labour methods (Stall-Meadows, 2011). Many multinational companies have thrived from this practice of fast fashion at the expense of these labour workers; this is particularly evident when investigating the affect this has had on the denim manufacturing industry in China, and how this has affected the health of the workers involved (Muller, 2013).  Denim jeans are the most known and popular item of clothing above all others (Muller, 2013). Their origins as work clothes for migrant workers have evolved to become an integral part of current lifestyle, and a global cultural icon (Cappuccio, 2009). The current trend of vintage looking denim, that is pre-worn looking fabric, was the result of a trend during the 1960’s that has evolved to modern day vintage trends; it has since been channelled by denim manufacturers globally, to capitalize on the consumer market trend (Cappuccio, 2009). Manufacturers have developed industrial scale production teams and processes, to mass-produce this look on raw denim jeans for the world market (Riddselius & Maher, 2010).This is now achieved through manual and mechanical sandblasting, the process of using compressed air on stones to produce a very fine sand; this affect softens the denim and lightens the colour (Cappuccio, 2009).A report was published in 2013 entitled “Breathless for Blue Jeans”, which looks in detail at the current Chinese denim manufacturing industry through a study into the six major plants, and the affect that these working conditions have had on the health of the workers (Muller, 2013). The purpose of the report was to determine the extent to which sandblasting was still being used, having undergone previous worldwide ban from a previous study carried out on Turkish workers in 2009, and on the overall occupational health and safety of the factories (Muller, 2013). Silicosis as an epidemic, is not a new concept to the global garment industry, it was discovered in the early 1990's by Turkish doctors who produced a study showing the threat this had to the local denim workers due to the numbers who had developed respiratory conditions, and eventual cases of silicosis (Riddselius & Maher, 2010). In 2010 a report was published entitled “Killer Jeans: A report on sandblasted denim”; this communicated the severity of this occupational disease which resulted in the Turkish government introducing a ban on sandblasting (Riddselius & Maher, 2010). The publishing of this report also influenced 40 major denim brands to publicise they were banning this practice (Riddselius & Maher, 2010). The study was found that 5000 people had developed silicosis in Turkey, and as a result 50 of them had died from it (Cappuccio, 2009). The study found that the first two textile workers to be diagnosed with silicosis were two men aged 18 and 19, who had worked in the industry for five years starting at age 13 and 14, working 11 hours a day when preliminary exposure occurred (Riddselius & Maher, 2010). Since the ban in Turkey the sandblasting industry has moved to other countries such as China, India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Argentina and parts of Northern Africa, where the health and safety regulations are weaker (Muller, 2013). Another study in 2008 of 157 Turkish workers found that the average age of these workers was 23, with the youngest starting at 10 years of age (Riddselius & Maher, 2010). By July 2010, 46 people had died from silicosis, all of whom had developed the disease whilst working within the clothing industry as sandblasters (Muller, 2013). China is the largest country in the world and has 21% of the global population (Stalls-Meadows, 2011). Current statistics nominate that five billion pairs of jeans are made throughout the world each year (Cappuccio, 2009), which can be further broken down to one million pairs of jeans currently produced every month in China (Muller, 2013). Each month 150 000 pairs of jeans are sandblasted from one factory in China alone (Riddselius & Maher, 2010). The impact of multinational companies consistently seeking cheaper forms of labour and avoiding occupational health issues to keep production costs low, (Davis-Burns et al.,2011) has resulted in half of the world’s denim fabrication occurring in the Quangdong Provence in South Eastern China (Traid, 2013). As the artefact video above shows, this is a secretive practice still used by large corporations, to the detriment of the workers; these people who are notoriously paid low in China, seek out employment that puts their health at risk, to be able to earn a slightly better livelihood for themselves and their families (War on Want, 2011) <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif; font-size: 120%;">All parts of the production of denim products are considered harmful to worker’s health, from indigo dying, through to sandblasting, if correct protective measures are not set in place (Riddselius & Maher, 2010). Sandblasting is the most favoured technique employed by denim companies to create the look of distressed jeans, as it allows them to charge more than raw denim products, which hasn’t had it’s appearance altered (Muller, 2013). Silicosis is an incurable and irreversible lung disease, which occurs due to inhalation of free crystalline silica; silica is released when rock or sand are crushed (World Health Organisation, 2000). There are four types of Silicosis, however it is the type referred to as Acute Silicosis which relates to garment workers; this condition can develop as quick as several weeks to five years after exposure, and can often lead to a rapid death due to decline in respiratory ability and subsequent heart failure (Muller, 2013). <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">The World Health Organisation reported that from 1991 to 1995, China reported more than 500,000 cases of silicosis from denim sandblasting workers (WHO, 2000). <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif; font-size: 120%;">This form of exposure appears to be more hazardous than many previously known sources, presumably because of very intense exposure due to long working hours, under very poor hygiene conditions without any serious respiratory protection or proper ventillation (Akgun et al, 2008 ).

__**<span style="font-family: 'Lucida Console',Monaco,monospace; font-size: 16px;">5. Cultural and Social Analysis: **__

<span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif; font-size: 120%;">“Globalization is defined as the process where goods and services, capital, people, information and ideas flow across borders and lead to greater integration of economies and societies; it has made substantial advances in recent decades and is viewed by many as an inescapable feature of the world today” (Avenor, 2004). <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif; font-size: 120%; line-height: 1.5;">George Ritzer’s theory of “McDonaldisation” as a part of globalization, looks at the works of Weber to reinforce the inevitability of globalization on all global cultures; therefore Ritzer believes that the McDonaldisation of society has consistently emcompassed more industries, chains, social institution and geographic areas globally (Ritzer, 1995). McDonalisation is the process whereby companies look to the values of efficiency, predictability, calculability and control as the business ethos to maximize profits (Ritzer, 1995). <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 1.5;">Ritzer (1995) writes that the process of McDonaldised systems over time, pose health risks for populations due to the pressure this type of system places on the individual, due to the un-relenting mass blanket affect (Ritzer, 1995). <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif; font-size: 120%;">Article 23 of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, published under the United Nations, dictates that “//Everyone has the right to life, the right to work, to free choice of employment, to just and favourable conditions at work”// (United Nations, 2000). Trade liberalization between large economies has both positive and negative side effects on populations (Avenor, 2004) Opening markets to foreign firms reduces the local market power due to multinational pressure, eventually forcing local companies out of business; this inevitably leads people to work for foreign corporations, who have the ability to dictate wages and occupational health and safety standards (Avenor, 2004). The International Labour Organisation has defined occupational health: “Occupational health should aim to promote and maintain the highest degree of physical, mental and social well-being of workers in all occupations; to prevent amongst workers the departure from health caused by their working conditions; to protect workers in their employment from risks resulting from factors adverse to health”. (ILO, 2000).The use of complex and hidden supply chains in Chinese factories, which characterises the garment industry worldwide, is largely responsible for the severe impact this manufacturing process is having on the health of sandblasting workers (Riddselius & Maher, 2010). In this way, <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 1.5;">Ritzer’s research has proven that the process of McDonaldised systems over time, pose health risks for populations (Ritzer, 1995). <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif; font-size: 120%; line-height: 1.5;">Muller (2013) nominates that laws need to be established to have large scale corporations publish their sustainability practices on their websites, nominating where they source their factories, farmers, dying houses an other plants involved in the production process; this would create an open door policy towards company and industry practice. Providing such as that listed, will force companies to penetrate their theoretical wall of hypothetical information or giving the customer what they want to hear, by holding them publicly accountable for their occupational practices; this will encourage populations to become ethical consumers by placing pressure on multinational brands (Muller, 2013).

__**<span style="font-family: 'Lucida Console',Monaco,monospace; font-size: 16px;">6. Artefact Analysis and Reflection: **__ T <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif; font-size: 120%;">he video artefact was chosen because of the inside perspective it gives consumers into the terrible conditions that human beings endure, and the health risks that are being inflicted on them. The covert nature of the interviews, footage and processes involved provides real-time insight into the shocking conditions generated by multinational supply chains to satisfy a global fashion need, and subsequent profit margin. Prior to investigating the effect of globalisation in depth, I like many other consumers were in the dark about issues like this, and how they actually affected the people involved. The fundamental need to earn a living should not place anyone’s health in danger, nor should anyone submissively fall under the corporate wrath of an institution’s corporate goals. <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif; font-size: 120%; line-height: 1.5;">This type of workplace would not be acceptable in a westernised culture on mass, therefore it stands to reason why is there an attitude that particular human beings hold a second-class citizen rank in society, because they exist in a larger population. It’s quite sad that the effect of globalisation has detrimental affects to some people and not others, based on a decline in humanitarian standardisation towards human rights. I for one have changed my perspective towards the power of the global giants who rule society through their corporate presence in our lives. It makes me sick that capital comes before human rights and health needs, and that we as a culture have a throw away attitude to issues like this, due to a lack of exposure, absconded by the very corporations leading the charge. The quote below is a good solution, however the UN needs to gain absolute power over the WTO, for things to really change. That would be a global battle in itself, but one that needs to occur.

//**<span style="color: #000000; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">“How can we bridge the gap from poverty to decent work? By investing in economic and social policies that foster job creation; promoting decent labour conditions and deepening social protection systems **".// <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">(UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-Moon, Address to the General Assembly, 2010)

__**<span style="font-family: 'Lucida Console',Monaco,monospace; font-size: 120%;">7. Reference List: **__ Avenor, PR. (2004) Does Globalisation hurt the Poor? //International Economics and Economic Policy,// 1 (1), 21-51. Retrieved from: []

Akgun,M.,Araz, O., Akkurt, I., Eroglu,A., Saglam, l.,Mirici, A., Gorguner, M. and Nemery,B. (2008) An epidemic of silicosis among former denim sandblasters. //European Respiratory Journal,// (32) 5, 1295-1303. Retrieved from: []

Berger, N,. and Marquardt, M. (2003). The future: Globalisation and new roles for HRD. //Advances in developing human resources,// 5 (3), 283-295. Retrieved from: []

Cappuccio, S (2009) Jeans, the human cost of an icon. //International News,// 1(1). 46-47. Retrieved from: [] Clean Clothes Campaign (2010) Breathless for blue Jeans. [Image File 1]. Retrieved from: http://archive.cleanclothes.org/resources/photos

Clean Clothes Campaign (2010) Breathless for blue Jeans. [Image File 2]. Retrieved from: http://archive.cleanclothes.org/resources/photos

Davis-Burns, L., Mullet, K., Bryant,N. (2011) //The business of fashion: Designing, Manufacturing, and Marketing// (4th Edition). Fairchild Publications, USA.

Global Exchange (2011) //Investor Rights or Citizen Right//s. Retrieved from: []

Global Exchange (2011) //World Trade Organisation//. Retrieved from: [] Iqbal, S., Guggenberger, M. Alam, K. (2012) Deadly Denim: Sandblasting in the Bangladesh Garment Industry. Retrieved from: http://archive.cleanclothes.org/resources/ccc/working-conditions/deadly-denim-sandblasting-in-the-bangladesh-garment-industry Mills, M (2008) Globalisation and Inequality. //European Sociological Review//, 25 (1). 1-8. Retrieved from: []

Muller, D. (2013) //Breathless for Blue Jeans: Health Hazards in China’s Denim Factories. Clean Clother Campaign.// Retrieved from: []

Munck, R (2010) Marxism and Nationalism in the Era of Globalisation. //Capital and Class 3//4 (1). 45-54. Retrieved from: []

Riddselsius, C and Maher, S (2009). Killer Jeans: A report on sandblasted Denim. Labour Behind the Label. Retrieved from: []

Ritzer, G. (1996) The McDonaldisation Thesis: Is expansion inevitable? Retrieved from: http://iss.sagepub.com/content/11/3/291

Stall-Meadows, C. (2011). //Fashion Now: A global perspective//. Prentice Hall: New Jersey, USA.

Traid (2013) //Banning Sandblasting Jeans//. Retrieved from: []

The United Nations (2000) //The Universal Declaration of Human Rights.// Retrieved from: []

The World Health Organisation (2000) //Protection of the Human Environment: Silicosis.// Retrieved from: [] War on Want (2013) Distressed Jeans by Distressed Workers [Video File]. Retrieved from: []

__**<span style="font-family: 'Lucida Console',Monaco,monospace; font-size: 120%;">8. Learning Engagement and Reflection **__ 1) []

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